-I have an idea that has been going around in my head for a long time.
-What is it?
-I want to go to South America. To Patagonia.
That’s how easy it is to land a goal. In my case, I had this conversation with a friend in a bar in France. However, what was I to know at that moment of the wonders that awaited me? And how, despite anticipating so many months, everything turned out totally different than expected.
Patagonia is an untamed land, where although you can predict the weather conditions, when you make your trip, everything can change very quickly. In some cases you can even see all the seasons of the year in one day. However, and this is something we adventurers understand, the changes in a journey are what allow us to tell stories.
For example, on one occasion I was sailing through the Patagonian fjords at the mouth of the explorers’ valley, very close to the Ofqui isthmus and heading for the town of Caleta Tortel in the Aysén region, one of the most inhospitable spots in Patagonia. My goal was to see one of the largest whale cemeteries in the world, but what I found surprised me even more.
The route advanced between immense glaciers, during a particularly beautiful day and this somehow made me a little anxious. I didn’t know what a whale cemetery looked like, but the very idea seemed powerful. Come to think of it, it’s funny how we were in some sense attracted to death, something that people spend their whole lives avoiding.
The guide and captain of our boat explained to us that the whales mysteriously come to this place to die. Some attribute this to something mystical, a kind of code between whales that drives them to come and strand on this coast, an area known as the “end of the world”. While others say it is due to climate change or more earthly reasons. What is certain is that this phenomenon is so frequent on the coasts of Aysén that it is in itself a tourist attraction.
We approached the area, our boat turned left and I had all my senses alert, with a high expectation of what I was going to find.
–We are coming,” said our guide.
–Excellent, ” I replied.
It was a point of calm waters surrounded by small mountains and a little mist, I could perceive a beach that was not very big, but in which, according to what we had been told, dozens of whale remains were piled up. On one occasion as many as 300 were counted! That’s when I looked up, and then I realized… there was nothing, not even the remains of a penguin! The captain must have guessed my frustration, and told me:
-It seems that there have been no whales for days. I dare say that weeks, because no one here moves this, surely the sea took them away again.
I think my disappointment was evident, and then the captain blurts out one of the phrases that best describes this place:
-Don Alex, Patagonia is sometimes like that… capricious.
-Don’t worry captain, it was a nice tour and enough things have surprised me in the time I’ve been here.
-That’s right Alex, and surely more surprises await you on the way, you know that “he who hurries in Patagonia, loses”. “he who hurries in Patagonia, loses”.
On the way back I really enjoyed the scenery and, in fact, it is some of the most stunning scenery I have ever seen. The captain’s phrase allowed me to remind myself of something I usually keep in mind in my adventures, the expectation about the destination should not prevent me from enjoying what I am living.
This type of experience has allowed me to strengthen Tolhuin Expeditions, because what can you expect from a land where anything can happen? Fortunately the experience has taught me things, such as planning the perfect season in which to visit different places in the vast Patagonia that include some of the most inhospitable and wonderful places in the world.
*Traveler’s tip: Whale season in Patagonia: from January to May (summer-autumn).
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Patagonia is full of landscapes to explore
Although Patagonia is characterized by its glaciers and mountains, it is such an immense place that you can find beaches, lagoons, snow-capped volcanoes, rock formations such as the marble chapels or a hill with a medieval appearance, Cerro Castillo, or the imposing and curious Torres del Avellano.
And of course, although its name may not seem so, one of the most interesting places you can find is the PumalÃn – Douglas Tompkins National Park on the Carretera Austral.
I started on the “Ranita de Darwin” trail, which is 2.5 kilometers long and takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes, along a very well marked path, wooded and humid, but quite pleasant to walk.
This park is relatively new. It was created on February 28, 2018 and has more than 400,000 hectares, of that immense area about 296,000 hectares were donated by the American philanthropist Douglas Tompkins, founder of The North Face and Esprit brands, who had the motto of. “you can live off trees without cutting them down”. and sought to promote the conservation of these virgin lands.
Along the way I could observe a great variety of mushrooms, clearly I did not touch any for safety, but it was such a variety of shapes and colors that I was surprised, after so many years coming to Patagonia, and it still has to surprise me.
The connection with nature is incredible, it is a quiet route that is adorned with the relaxing sound of a river. I was looking for water while I was still trekking, and I came face to face with one of the tallest trees I have ever seen in my life, a larch, a species of the pine family that can grow up to 50 meters high.
This site is very well signposted with wooden plaques indicating the number of each station. I recommend you to take the new trail that starts after station 04, it will take you to a small waterfall of pristine water, surrounded by plants with very large leaves. In general it is a very cool trail, it goes fast and you can observe many animals and plants. It is also surrounded by water.
In this park there are more demanding trails. For example, there is a 3.5 kilometer trail with a steeper path up to the camping area called Ventisquero, which has an impressive view of the mountains. From here you can even see the Michinmahuida volcano. As you go deeper into the forest and continue climbing, the scenery and the view get much better, but walk carefully, because there are some plant leaves that are pointed and are at the height of your arms.
Now, this park has an incredible abundance of wildlife, but, although they were heard throughout the tour, I spotted the first bird perched on a tree branch on my way back. It was at a distance of approximately 500 meters and was black with a red head. I had not seen a bird like it in any of my travels, and when I returned to France I was curious to know how many animals, plants and fauna are known in Patagonia.
- Plants: about 2,500 plant species recorded.
- Fungi: 10 species of Cyttaria and 31 species of Nothofagus recorded.
- Felines: 5 species recorded in Chilean Patagonia (puma, Andean wildcat, Colo Colo cat, Guiña cat, Geoffroy cat).
- Birds: almost 300 species recorded.
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To get lost in Patagonia is to find yourself again.
It is normal that when doing these routes you will not meet a single person, and this is more evident the further south you go. However, up to 10 tourists get lost every year, due to simple carelessness on routes and for periods of hours or a maximum of 1 to 2 days, while they find their way again, meet a local inhabitant who redirects them or are found by the search corps.
What I have learned over the years is that these situations arise from carelessness, inattention or excessive recklessness. Yes, it is true that there is always a risk of anything happening, but they are measured risks as long as instructions are followed.
So if you are planning to come to Patagonia, the answer is a resounding yes! It is worth traveling to Patagonia to live adventures. Travel with friends, travel as a couple, travel alone, but travel.
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